Grand Canyon and Las Vegas

My friend Rondi planned and invited us on a trip to hike the Rim to Rim in the Grand Canyon. She’s already done it (both directions, running) and wanted to take her husband, so then invited all her friends! She tore her ACL and meniscus shortly before the trip, so they’re saving the hike for later, but they went to Las Vegas with us. But thanks to her – this happened!

Day one

We flew Allegiant from Grand Rapids to Las Vegas and rented a 15-passenger van, but with no room in the back for luggage, there’s no way we could have fit 15 people in there. We had to use the back row for our suitcase. There were 10 of us – Matt, Moriah, and Clara Newman, Matt and Kate Upton, Suzie and Jared Fromson, Andrea Hallead, Matt Spiess, and me. So many Matts. We called them Spiess, Upton, and Hamms, for obvious reasons.

We were going right past the Hoover Dam, and it seemed a shame not to stop, so we did! The size and engineering looked amazing. I’d never seen it before, and I want to take a tour next time to hear all the amazing stats.

It was a four hour drive to South Kaibob Lodge in the Grand Canyon National Park. We checked in and ate at the outdoor restaurant at our lodge. Four of us set off because I wanted to see the canyon before sunset. On the map it looked like it was .5 miles, but after we walked through the woods for awhile, two headed back, and Matt Spiess and I walked by a campground, a fenced area, deserted paths, until finally we found the Visitor’s Center, and then sprinted to the canyon to see it before dark! (Who knew this giant hole would be so hard to find?!) Totally worth it. Breathtaking as always. This was not my first time to the Grand Canyon, but the next day was something new…getting all the way to the bottom!

Day two

We got all ready to hike, and we packed a lot of food and water. While standing outside, Matt Upton and I each saw a different shooting star. Matt Newman shuttled us to the South Kaibob trailhead. We got all ready, started off, and then heard a yell from the path: “Turn off your headlamps! Don’t go!” One of the mules below had broken away, and they were trying to collect it. We waited about five minutes until they yelled, “Okay, now you can come!” And…we were off again! We used our headlamps for the first little bit, but it was quickly light. I started with a light jacket because it was about 45 degrees, but took it off after about 20 minutes.

A lot of my friends used hiking poles, and they would be helpful for the more technical (i.e. steep and rocky) parts of the hike. We descended for a long time. I slipped and fell once when I was putting my phone back in my running belt, and when my arm hit the ground it jarred the phone out of my hand, where it crashed against the rock wall and landed on the path. Unbroken!

I was familiar with the first part of the hike, because I’d hiked halfway down this trail twice. I did the same on Bright Angel, but I like this path’s views better. We watched the sunrise, and made the long trek to the bottom, stopping for breaks along the way.

I was so excited to get to the Colorado River! All the times I’ve hiked here, I’ve wanted to get to the bottom. It was so nice to put my hands in it.

We stopped at Phantom Ranch for lunch, and we noted we were a third of the way done. So far, so good! The views were unbeatable.

There was then a long section of flat. We were along a river, walking by giant cliffs of rock, and it was an easy walk. It was hotter here, (about 89 degrees), but we were in shade for a lot of it, so it wasn’t too hot. People were prepared and soaked handkerchiefs in the water and put them around their necks. This part wasn’t technical, and you didn’t really have to watch your feet. It was dusty though, and our shoes and socks were covered in a fine red film.

There was a sign that said you could go to Ribbon Falls by one path or another, and Matt Spiess and Jared got separated when crossing the river. I wanted to go by bridge, but when we got to the bridge part, it said the bridge had been removed and I could just cross the river by wading it. I chose not to, and we waited until Matt Spiess returned to go forward. Andrea got really hot here, but Jared gave her a cooling cloth for her neck, I poured water on her head, and she was fine.

We started the ascent! There were stops for water and bathroom all along the way, and we all filled up and ate. We saw waterfalls, a helicopter pad, mule deer, lizards, and talked to the other hikers. Moriah and I sang show tunes, we chatted, and we took a lot of pictures.

We got to one spot that was out of this world. It was so dramatic. The colors, the size of the cliff we were walking on, the long view across the valley. I just sat and soaked it in. It’s funny to think that one place can be so wonderful when the entire hike’s views are also wonderful, but it really was.

We took our last photo in the light, since it was dark by 6:00 p.m., and we continued the hike in the dark. Now there weren’t any views outside of my little circle of light, but my phone started getting service, so I was texting and hiking! I could see my friends' headlamps below and above me. 

We met some people coming back who said we had three miles left to go, and Kate put it on her watch. At three miles, we still weren’t done. Okay, maybe we have another half a mile, we thought. We went another half a mile and reached Coconino Overlook, which I knew from the map meant we had .7 more to go. That’s it! We marched out the .7 and then…saw Matt and Clara’s lights greeting us at the end! We made it! As Andrea walked up Suzie said, “Let’s put our poles and arms up and have her walk through them!” Jared said, “The thing about this group is you can always count on someone making it weird.” We did and then we all celebrated! Suzie and Jared presented us with medals they handmade for each of us. 

Matt told us he made $90 shuttling people from the parking lot while he waited for us. Bonus!

Matt drove us to our lodge – the North Kaibob Lodge. There was nowhere to eat anywhere around us, so he had bought snacks and drinks for us, and we talked and celebrated in one of the 8-person cabins. When I showered, red dust swirled down the drain!

Day three

The aspen trees at the lodge were so beautiful, I couldn’t stop taking pictures of them. So white and yellow against the green trees! We ate a hearty breakfast buffet there ($15.99 and worth it) and then drove to Las Vegas, dropped off the van, Ubered to the Mirage, and met up with Rondi and Andy! They’d gone ebiking in Zion with friends Destinee and Thom. We went right to the pool, which has waterfalls and a hot tub and palm trees, and it was beautiful.

People split up for night – some to see Miranda Lambert, Beatles Love Cirque de Soleil, ziplining, and Andrea and I went to see Mystere Cirque de Soleil, where I was nervous the entire time for the performers since they could DIE at so many moments! We also went to the Venetian to see the sky room (the Grand Canal Shoppes), ate a giant shake at Black Tap, and watched the volcano erupt at the Mirage. After that, three Matts and a Jared went to old Las Vegas to the Evil Knievel placed called Evel Pie because they had Hamm’s there, which you can’t get just anywhere.    

Day four

Pool day! We spent a lot of the beautiful, hot day at the pool, and Destinee and Thom joined all of us, too. All together! With friends I also saw the Bellagio decorations inside (so gorgeous) and the Bellagio fountain (always a crowd-pleaser.) It was particularly fun to see it with Moriah, because she loved it and cheered like we were at a concert!

We also walked in the Cosmopolitan, because it’s fancy, watched the volcano again, and enjoyed seeing all the people walking around Las Vegas.

We got all dressed up in our gowns and suits we recently wore to Kate and Matt’s Great Gatsby party, and many of us wore wigs. This is the second time I’ve gone out in Las Vegas in this wig, but the first time was 20 years ago. We ate at The Still in our hotel, and it was delicious. We danced, the Newmans went to ride the Ferris wheel (very fun), and I watched people lose a lot of money before I decided I was not going to join them.

We left the next morning and headed for home. Overall, the Grand Canyon hike was amazing. Strava said it’s 27 miles, which is what my Fitbit said, but some clock it at 22 miles or 24 miles. Anyway, it was long, elevation 5,790 feet down, and totally worth doing. If you don’t want to do the whole hike, then going halfway down and back up is great, too.

This was my fifth time to both the Grand Canyon and Las Vegas, so if you have any questions about either, I’m happy to answer them. This trip was really made possible by Rondi, so thanks to her, and thanks also to our amazing friends who always say YES!

Update: Andrea made a video of the entire trip and it is amazing! Link here.

Arizona in three days

Kate and I had three days - plus two travel days - to see Arizona.  If that's the kind of time you have, here's what we did and what you might want to do, too!

Thursday - 

Phoenix

We flew into Phoenix Sky Harbor International because we found super cheap flights, but don't overlook the Phoenix-Mesa airport, because it has some sweet deals, too.  For instance, Allegiant flies into there.  Last year I went from Grand Rapids to Phoenix-Mesa with a $200 ticket, and the fact that the girl next to me had a cat in her lap the entire time, and at one point the cat clawed my dress ... still totally worth the money.  And that's saying a lot.  

We took an Uber to Phoenix to check out Lustre, a rooftop bar and restaurant.  It was a little hard to get into and looked closed, but when we found our way up there, it was lovely!  Pretty pool, comfy furniture, and a great view.  Kate ordered a drink that came in a little honey bear on ice.  We were taken.

Kate is a total foodie so she always orders interesting items.  She loved her seafood dish and dips, and I loved my pretzel sticks.  Salt and bread - that's my jam.

The Diamondbacks were playing, plus Disney on Ice was about to start, so we walked around and checked out the people coming into downtown.  We went for a drink at Copper Blues - Rock Pub & Kitchen, which was an artsy outdoor place with a lot of taps - and another open, warm outdoor area!  (Sitting outdoors and eating AND being warm is right up there for a lot of people from Michigan.  I have, in some cases, done this in a winter coat.)

DAY 1 - Friday

Lake Pleasant Regional Park to Yavapai Peak

Hiking!  We went to Lake Pleasant Regional Park to hike to Yavapai Peak.  After paying the entrance fee of $7.00, we parked at the wrong trailhead, then found the right one due to the map.  If you tell them at the gate where you want to go they can direct you.  

The whole desert was in bloom, and the entire landscape is full of saguaro cactus!  Please note - it is imperative that you imitate their branches with your arm motion and take a picture.

The trail is well-maintained and an easy three-mile out and back.  Last year my dad and son went off track and got into some teddy bear cactus.  Cole got it in his elbow, head, arm ... my dad had it all over his backside ... but the park service has now thoughtfully put up a sign indicating that this trail - that USED to look like a trail - is NOT the trail.

The view from the bench at the top is so beautiful, and the sweeping vistas are just as nice on the way down.

I don't normally carry water around, but in Arizona it is dry.  You know, with it being the desert and all.  I like to take water on hikes and I always drink it.  

Next up -     

White Tank Mountain Regional Park and Petroglyphs

We drove about 30 minutes to the White Tank Mountains and on the way got to see a field of roses!  Not wild roses - like a crop of roses.  (We didn't have to pay again - the park receipt is good for the day.)

The White Tank Mountain Regional Park features petroglyphs.  Petroglyphs are unlike hieroglyphics, because they look like a lot of graffiti, but really old graffiti.  They have signs talking about what the doodlings might mean, so you can make fun of their interpretations.  "This swirl may indicate the eternity of life and the uncertainty we all face ... or the artist might have really liked a curvy line."

This trail is touted as family friendly, and for a long way it is a cement sidewalk.  After you get off the sidewalk, it takes you to a fun canyon.  You can take off your shoes, wade through the water, and climb up the canyon to where there is sometimes a trickle of a waterfall (a very small trickle).  I did that with my mountain goat-children, but Kate and I opted to lie on a very large, very warm rock and take in the gorgeous view.

Scottsdale

We got dressed up and headed to Scottsdale for dinner.  We ate at Hot Noodles, Cold Saki because Kate thought that the ramen looked amazing.  Don't be put off by the fact that it is really hard to find in a strip mall.  (We had some difficulty finding it - but there was a rainbow that led us right to it!  Don't expect this when you go.  Especially if you go after dark.)

Kate loved her food so much that she couldn't talk to me while she ate it.  It was that good!  I also liked mine - an egg on top of noodles and lots of vegetables.

Old Town Scottsdale was immediately attractive to me, because anytime you hang lights criss cross across a downtown I'm IN.  We went to the most happening place on the block, The Rusty Spur Saloon.  A band of old guys played and the people were friendly.  We ventured outside because I wanted to try ... the e-scooters!  We downloaded the app and I rode the Bird for the first time!  There were lots of art galleries around us and Kate and I - sometimes riding double and sometimes single - checked them out.  They were surprisingly easy to ride, because I'm not that great at a regular scooter, but these were fun!

DAY 2 - Saturday

Cathedral Rock Trail

We headed to Sedona to hike the Cathedral Rock trail.  This is easily one of my favorite hikes.  You have to actually climb - on all fours - and find footholds, but if  you fell you wouldn't get hurt.  It's the perfect angle!

You have to pay at the machine in the parking lot, then put the receipt in your car.  The earlier you get there, the better, because it fills up on nice days.  People just start parking along the street, which is fine, too, but pretty narrow.

Have you already heard about the vortex in Sedona?  Some people claim to feel some force when in Sedona.  Before I went there I thought it was kind of silly, but 2/3 times I've been to Sedona I've definitely felt something, which feels a lot like an abrupt change in altitude.  I like it.

It's just a two-mile round trip.  You can enjoy the views all the way up, and once you're up there, the red of the rock and the blue of the sky is absolutely beautiful.  Lots of people were just hanging out on top, taking pictures, eating, drinking water, and even meditating.  We did too.  Lovely hike and view! 

We ate great Mexican food at Miley's Cafe and wonderful ice cream at Rocky Road Ice Cream Company, but there are a million choices of places to eat.  

Chapel of the Holy Cross

We went to Chapel of the Holy Cross, which is a beautiful church built into a rock, up really high, surrounded by red rocks.  

The builder seemingly didn't anticipate that masses of people would want to come and see the church, because the parking situation is awful.

Everyone wants to see it, and there's no entry fee - other than voluntarily paying for candles to light and a gift shop.  There's angled parking on the street up, and the parking attendant motioned for me to go forward, but there was no parking any closer.  You just have to go to the top and do a three point turn in a parking lot and head back down.  My advice - go when it's not busy, or just park below in the street on the way there.  We got lucky and got a spot on the way down, but I wouldn't count on it.

But it's worth it!  The church is so pretty, the art is lovely, and the view from the church is gorgeous.

Grand Canyon

Kate and I parked at the Grand Canyon National Park Visitors Center ($35 per car for 1-7 day pass) and hit Mather Point for the sunset.  It was the first time Kate had been, and the fourth time I've been ... but it does NOT get old.  It is so gorgeous that it brought tears to my eyes.  (So dramatic...)  We moved off to the west to see more and to get away from the crowds.  We toasted the sunset.  By the time we left, we were both shivering.  When the sun's gone it immediately gets cold.  Take warm clothes!

DAY 3 - Sunday

Grand Canyon South Kaibab Trail

After spending the night in Tusayan at the Canyon Plaza Premier Studio and Apartments (only a few miles from the entrance to the Grand Canyon), we went back to the visitor center to catch the 8:00 a.m. shuttle bus to the South Kaibab Trail, my favorite trail into the canyon.  I have also hiked halfway down into the canyon on the Bright Angel trail, but I prefer the views and less traffic of this one.

There are signs upon signs that instruct you to not to go down into the canyon and back up in one day, and I haven't...but WOW is it tempting.  Seems fine, really.  But you didn't hear it from me.

We had a gorgeous day, sunny and perfect weather for hiking.  We hiked past Ooh Ahh Point to Cedar Ridge, where there are bathrooms.  We went on a huge rock outcropping here to stop and eat and drink and once again, look at the gorgeous view and talk about how great it was.

This is my top thing to do in Arizona - hiking down this trail.  I really love it, everyone there is happy, (there are some nervous parents clutching their children, but they all seemed excited, too) and the views are one of the best things I've seen.  I just love going so far down into it that you're surrounded.  This time, we didn't even have to share the trail with mules, which made me feel much more confident that nothing was going to accidentally knock me to my death.  My mom sent me three articles about people who fell into the canyon and died in the weeks leading up to our trip, but there were no mules involved in any of the accidents.

Flagstaff

After the trail, we drove to Flagstaff to eat.  There was snow on the mountains!  Flagstaff was a hip, cool college town, full of students, hipsters, and murals.  We ate great food at the Lumberyard Brewing Co, but there are a ton of choices.  People were eating outside, enjoying the sunshine, looking at the snow capped mountains. 

Sun City West

My parents live in Sun City West in the winter, which is where Kate and I stayed.  It's a 17,000 house retirement neighborhood with three rec centers, clubs for every activity imaginable, and opportunities to play, play, play.  You have to be 55 to own a home there, but there is no age limit for visitors!  We stayed here Sunday night and flew home Monday.

So that's Arizona in three days.  It's warm, it's fun, and there is so much to do within a few hours.

Thanks to Kate for suggesting the trip and my parents for living there!  I'll go cry at a beautiful sight anytime.  Mule attendance optional.

If you have any questions about your upcoming trip, please feel free to email me at carla.wardin@gmail.com.