Ireland

Kris and I had planned on going on vacation together (to Greece) and using Gage's pass. As the days got closer, it became clear that the corn harvest was going to be at the same time. Latest season ever! I already had the time blocked off and had it in my head I wanted to go somewhere, so I chose Ireland because I'd never been and Kris had - he studied here in college for 6 weeks.

Gage's pass worked like a charm, and I arrived in Dublin bleary-eyed and ready to take on the day! I took just a backpack so I could get started immediately.

I had rented an Airbnb (9A Ballinteer, near Dundrum), and the host Paula suggested that the public transportation was great. I found the bus, figured out how to pay (you needed exact change), and found out how to get to the city center of Dublin. Everyone was very friendly and helpful.

Dublin

I walked to the Guinness Storehouse for a tour. It was a museum (they had a video of men making barrels out of wood without measuring, which was fascinating) and ended with a Guinness on the seventh story all glass, circular room. I just sat and looked at the skyline and realized everyone was right - Gunniess does taste different in Ireland!

Christ Church - This was the prettiest one of all the churches I saw.

Saint James's Gate – This was right outside the storehouse.

Castle-looking, modern art museum - I didn't go in but admired the castle-like exterior.

Kilmainham Gaol – No one was here, so I didn’t get a ticket, but I liked seeing it.

Part of old city wall - Just right along in the street! I love when they just leave things plopped right where they used to be.

St Audoen Church – This had ruins in the courtyard. The guide here was super friendly and wanted me to love his place and I did.

Dublin Castle - The grounds were so European and there was a statue of a tiger. Felt royal.

Trinity College - A friend in college studied here and I was happy to see it. It was absolutely nothing like I pictured. I was going to buy a tour and saw there was a footnote that the books had been removed from the book of Kells. Is it worth it? I asked the ticket seller. No, he said. Go to Marsh's.

St Patrick's Cathedral and Marsh’s - I bought  a dual ticket to St Patricks and Marsh's. St Patrick's was okay, but I loved Marsh's as soon as I walked in because apparently I LOVE the smell of 16th century books. They had an old map exhibit too, and I really enjoyed being here.

I was so tired and so jet lagged, as I’d been up more than 24 hours. I got a burrito to go and the cashier asked if I had a student discount.  THANKS! I rode the train home and saw I had an 18 minute walk to my house. Whew. I went to bed early.

Day two

At the suggestion of my host, I walked to Marlay Park and headed on Wicklow Way, which is really long – it actually goes 78 miles across Ireland. There were tons of runners out at Marlay Park, plus people walking dogs. It was a lively place. I walked on pavement for awhile thinking...this isn't what I meant when I said hike...but then it turned into one! It got steep and rocky and opened up to views of the city and the water.

Then it happened - what I pictured when I thought of Ireland. I saw SHEEP and ROCK WALLS. I have a deep affinity for rock walls because my mom built them at both of our houses. I wanted to see sheep because Kris talked about his farm tours in the past.

I was thrilled. It was incredibly windy, but still warm. I walked right up a mountain with mountains in the distance to Fairy Castle, which is a pile of rocks I'm convinced people built to get out of the wind.

The view was gorgeous. Mountains to one side, trees another, city, and the bay. Beautiful.

I didn't want to walk the same way back, so I figured I’d go to a car park and call an uber. I had checked to make sure ubers came here, so no worries there. I talked to a woman and she said, you should go to the coast - pointing at it. It looked so close. Could I get there by train or bus? I asked. Oh, probably, she said, though she had no idea how.

I kept going and eventually descended into a car park. I had hiked nine miles at that point and decided I'd uber to lunch. Just kidding! The uber pretended it worked but when it came to 'find driver' it just circled. Oh well. I walked another mile to a pub, but i didn't like the feel of it, so I hit up one on the way home for a toastie (what they call a grilled sandwich). A 12 mile morning!

I changed at home and headed for the coast. It took me a little to figure it out, but I had to first ride a train and then a bus. The entire trip minus waiting was 50 minutes. When I asked people for help along the way they couldn't believe i was going there. I'm not sure why - it must seem far? I drive 50 minutes for dinner with friends.

I went to Dun Laoghaire which is pronounced Done Leery. Much easier.

I loved it here. I walked on the pier, I watched the waves, I ate ice cream - so great. It was really pretty and there were so many people out, even ones swimming. There were also tons of young people. I would spend more time here but I had to get back to watch the World Cup rugby match at the local pub. (Did I know this was going on? Have I ever watched a rugby match? No to both, but my host told me the pubs would be busy because of it so I wanted to join in.)

The crowd was FIRED UP. It was a familiar sports atmosphere to me. I looked around. Not one person was eating. I ordered  a burger. Not one person had a glass of water. After Ireland scored (they killed Scotland), when no one was paying attention, I quietly asked the bartender for one and slammed it.

Day Three

I stopped by a beautiful street with umbrellas over it, and then I booked it to Christ Church for the service. The music was so great - the voices and minor harmonies and the acoustic quality - I loved it. The message was about not worrying, which I noted for later when I was trying to get home and there were no seats on the flights.

National Gallery of Ireland - I love art museums, and this had a couple of my old favorites (Carvaggio, Monet) and then some new ones I loved (Geraldine O'Neill). They had an entire section of Irish artists that I didn’t know, and I got to see what was voted Ireland’s favorite painting, The Meeting on the Turret Stairs, open only one hour a day. Beautiful place, and just the right size so you could see every room, and free.

I walked to the street along the Irish Whiskey Museum and it seemed everyone was out. It was a 72 degree day in October, and it seemed everyone wanted to be outside. Families, couples, people shopping, street performers people loved (singing Ed Sheeran of course) - all such a pleasant atmosphere!

I walked to the Ha'Penny Bridge and the Sprire, two things I didn't know were famous until I researched.

I took the train to see St Stephens Garden (their Central Park) and Ivegah Gardens which surprised me with a waterfall and palm trees, plus a hedge labyrinth! My friends Amy and Julie had just been talking about these and it was adorable. I totally figured it out.

I took the train back to the Temple Bar and wandered in and out of places playing traditional Irish music and traditional American music. The city was packed with people. You could hear so many languages at the same time.

I had a burrito made by a guy from Mexico (such traditional Irish food!) On the way home, I was immediately on alert at my train stop when I saw a group of guys fighting. I stayed far away, but no one else was worried and stood near them. I saw it was three train police arguing with a drunk shirtless guy. He eventually left. Danger free!

I awoke the next morning to see that instead of there being 16 seats available on my flight, there were now -27. I didn’t make that flight, nor the next one, but I got the third and made it home. It was all worth it in the end!

Notes:

Irish people greet you with ‘Hiya.’

I asked if the Wicklow Way hike was good, and the guy told me, “All the country walks are grand.”

Lots of earbud use among adults and kids.

Even though they drive on the left side of the road, they do not walk on left side. This surprised me.

There were so many more people smoking, vaping, and kissing. Not at the same time.

You're not allowed to eat on the train or bus but I noticed this everywhere...no one is eating or drinking. I didn’t see one water bottle or sippy cup. In the gardens, where everyone was hanging out, no one was eating. At the pubs outside, no eating. People might be drinking a beer, but never water. So different from home..

In America there is a public trash can within view almost everywhere. I don’t notice this until I’m somewhere else and have to carry my trash.

People often had to ask me to repeat myself. I often had to ask them too. The older Irish had much stronger accents than the teens and adults, which is true all over now, of course.

Anytime people asked where I was from I would say Michigan, because I assume I sounded American. Things I heard about that: We don’t get many from Michigan. I had a great time in Detroit once. I know it's beaten down now, but I had a great weekend. On top of Fairy Castle, a woman said, I bet you don’t have anything like this in Michigan. (Sure do!)

People looked just so Irish. That was fun.

Traveling alone - People were always willing to answer questions and then often asked about me, where I was going, what I was seeing, and then offering suggestions of good places. They all wanted me to love it there, and they all commented on my luck with the beautiful weather! I didn’t see a drop of rain.