Melbourne Beach, Florida - Dec 2020

With everything in Michigan cancelled - including sports, school, private businesses - there seemed to be no better time to LEAVE! I don't remember exactly how it happened, but in a flurry of text messages and $34 airline tickets (no joke, they were really that cheap) 17 of us were headed to Melbourne Beach, Florida!

We used VRBO to rent a house that was on an inlet, and the reviews all talked about manatees, dolphins, and birds coming by the dock every day. I thought it sounded awesome, but since you can never count on wildlife to show up, I wasn't banking on seeing anything. 

Manatees 

As soon as we got there, we saw manatees sticking their heads up right by our dock. I couldn't believe it. I'd never seen them before, and there were so many of them! People came by on a little rowboat and a bunch of manatee made the water church under them. They were scared and laughed and we did too! Later the same thing happened to me when I was in a kayak, and I was so glad. Usually you could just see their heads surfacing for air, but a couple of times I saw their tails, too.

Later I talked to a woman in Matt's office who grew up on the beach here. She said when they were kids they would feed the manatees heads of lettuce from their hands while in the water with them. 

Dolphins

I never knew you could HEAR dolphins, but it was so quiet in the inlet that you would just listen for them surfacing, and you could hear an exhale and inhale. Then you could watch them. They swam right next to my kayak many times, and right by our dock all the time. YOU CAN HEAR DOLPHINS. Thanks, Melbourne!

Birds

We were surrounded by so many pelicans, tons of different herons, and even flamingoes. People did a lot of fishing, and when the fish were big enough, Matt or Niles would filet them, Kate would cook them up, and we'd eat them minutes later. If they were too small, we sometimes threw them to the heron that was waiting in our lawn for just that reason.

Roffs

My friends own a business in Melbourne that provides fishing forecasting analysis. We visited the actual building (cool) and met his coworkers (also cool.) We also ate outside at a lovely outdoor restaurant nearby - The Mansion.

Beach

We stayed on Arrowhead Lane in Melbourne Beach, and as far as I could tell, all the houses along the inlet would have the same opportunities. One downside was the tiny black flies that were there at dusk and in the morning. We really got bitten up before we got bug spray, but I'm sure these are seasonal. There were no flies at the beach - we spent a lot of time at the private (Sunnyland Beach) that we had access to with the house. It was one mile away. The ocean was fantastic, as always. The sand was white, it was really empty, the waves were huge, and I loved it like I love most beaches. We came here every day to run and swim and play. 

I've been to Florida many times, but never here - really loved it. Maybe we'll do it again next year - and pack bug spray!

Maryland

In August I went to see one of my best friends, Alicia, who lives in Annapolis, Maryland, just for a quick weekend. I've been here before, too, and it's such a fun place to visit!

Bay Ridge

Alicia lives within walking distance of Bay Ridge, which is a beautiful neighborhood on the water. I couldn't stay away from here - walking, running, riding a bike - it was such a nice place to be. Alicia also said she loved telling her son Billy there was a secret trail, which I eventually found between the street and the beach. When you're on it, you're hidden from the road, but above the beautiful beach. Awesome place.

Billy Goat Trail

Alicia and I drove to go on the Billy Goat Trail, which is right on the Potomac. It has a great name, because you are really hopping on rocks for a long time! It was gorgeous, plus you had a spot where you had to climb up a steep part, plus you're balancing on rocks above a river, and I like hikes where you really could plunge to your death if you trip. They had all the regular 'you need water, this is a hard hike' signs that you can pretty much ignore unless you're in poor health. Super fun hike!

Annapolis by the water

Of course, it's on the water. We walked all along the water, got Alicia's son Billy ice cream, and had a wonderful time looking at the boats and all the people. One thing I love about Maryland is everyone's commitment to their state flag. No state has more of a connection to their flag, I'd argue. It is everywhere, it is easily identifiable, and I love it. It's flying from boats, it's on their logos, it's on babies' onesies. Everywhere.

Also I learned a word from Alicia. Burgee. It's a 'distinguishing flag of a recreational boating organization, most often in the shape of a pennant.' Please note, Alicia made fun of me when I called it a pennant. It just doesn't come up in my non-boating world! 

Annapolis downtown

Alicia and I went to Forward Brewery and walked to the state capitol building. There were lots of people out in the lively downtown. (Last time I visited here we also visited the U.S. Naval Academy grounds. We also went to St Michaels, another nice seaside town!) We then did something I've never done before ... 

Paddleboard yoga

So, I didn't like yoga until last year. Now I love it, and the chance to do it on a paddleboard? Why not?!

We went through Capital SUP. We walked to the dock and they gave us our weight, which was a Tide detergent container filled with sand. I plopped it on my paddleboard and we headed out to the middle of the water, where there were other classmates, our teacher, and a guitarist with an amp floating on a stage.

Right? Just my normal everyday yoga class. 

I threw my weight over the side, and as the class started, I started drifting farther and farther away. My weight apparently wasn't heavy enough, or wasn't hitting the sand. A couple of other people had the same thing happen to them. The instructor told me I should head for a shallower spot, so I went closer to shore and had no problem.

The sun was setting, the music was beautiful, and it was all so wonderful and fun. The yoga instructor did some more difficult poses, like a headstand, and when people fell in, we would all laugh and good naturedly cheer.   

All the elements - the sky, the music, the water - came together to make it a magical atmosphere. The people were all chatty and friendly too. Lovely time.

Alicia and I met her husband Bobby for dinner at the Annapolis Yacht Club that night. I also got to spend some quality time with her son Billy, who told me I was his best friend, probably because I have a lot of experience hanging out with little boys who love superheroes and wrestling. 

If you have the chance to go to Annapolis, it's a beautiful spot. If you want to fit in, just wear anything with the Maryland flag - and use the term burgee correctly.

North & South Dakota

It's my 48th and 49th states! 

Kris had been to Fargo for a trade show, which actually took place on Sept 11 in 2001. So he drove home from Fargo. Not much vacationing.

Happily, our friends Kate and Matt wanted to come with us! They're great vacation partners, and they were very gung ho about hiking, seeing cities, and driving 1500 miles in five days.

Fargo to Bismarck to Medora

We had a nice flight from Detroit to Fargo via Chicago ... but a few days before the flight changed to going through Dallas. Not on the way, but hey - there's not much flight selection right now! We rented a car from Hertz (tiny airport, desk right there, car steps from the airport - so nice) and drove to the Bismarck capitol building! 

I love capitol buildings. It was too late at night to go inside, so we admired it from the outside. We ate at Laughing Sun Brewery, which had both great atmosphere and food. We kept on and slept in Medora at the AmericInn. 

Theodore Roosevelt National Park 

Before I planned this trip, I'd never even heard of this park. I loved it! Not only was it beautiful, but there was so much wildlife. For the first time in my life, I saw wild horses. Wow! We also saw prairie dogs, turkeys, bison, a pheasant, a rabbit, and mule deer. Just driving there we saw antelope, a fox, and tons of hawks. It was so cool to see them all.

We were out the door at the crack of dawn and went on two hikes - Wind Canyon Trail and Buck Hill. I strongly recommend them both. Gorgeous sights, great peaks, and beautiful country. I would have stayed longer but we had to hit the next state...

Sturgis, South Dakota

Well, we stopped along the way in Sturgis, home of the world-famous motorcycle rally. This town was happening! Lots of balconies, little cabins, and even motorcycle-related art. Then on to ... 

Badlands National Park, South Dakota

The Badlands were like a different world. I felt like I was on another planet. I absolutely loved the layers, the stripes, and that we were looking basically at giant mounds of mud. Again we did two hikes - Notch Trail and Saddle Pass. Notch Trail even has a fun ladder to climb up. The alien nature of the Badlands, plus the cliffs and overlook, made this just a fascinating place.  Saddle Pass was also a great hike, since we got to go really, really high, plus see interesting sights along the way.  We stopped at lots of pulloffs along the way, and I loved what we saw, but again, I could have stayed here much longer. 

We saw bighorn sheep, longhorns, and headed toward our little cabins in Wall, SD. We stayed at Frontier Cabins (adorable) and ate out at the (okay) Badlands Saloon & Grill. 

Wall, South Dakota

We went to Wall Drug Store, because every sign for miles around said we had to go there. Also, it was the only thing open. And it didn't even open until 8:00 a.m.! It's hard to wait for coffee until 8:00 a.m. However, coffee is 5 cents there, and it was tasty. We ate a big breakfast, checked out the souvenirs, and left for Mount Rushmore!

Mount Rushmore

As we neared Mount Rushmore, it got snowier. We got out to see it and yes - I loved it! Matt had been there in 1986, but it was the first time seeing it for the rest of us. (It cost $10 to park.) We took some pictures and went in the museum. We decided to watch a 14-minute video about it in the theatre, and I was SO glad! It was so interesting the way they made it, with dynamite and drill bits! Also, even though it took 14 years and tons of people to complete it, no one died. Way to defeat gravity! The video may or may not have made me cry.  

We went back out, and I thought maybe it would be less snowy. It was - now fog! Hard to see any faces up there at all. Ha!

Crazy Horse

So, okay. It cost $30 to go here, and it is ... not done. And you can't even get close. Like, if you really want to see it, just check it out before you get to the parking attendant. This will probably be cool someday.

Black Hills National Forest

We drove into Custer State Park ($20. If you average out the $60 we spent for these three activities, and put them at $15/person, it seems totally worth it!) and it was a winding, twisty, pretty drive up to Little Devils Tower Trail. Another gorgeous hike! It wasn't snowing when we started, but by the time we'd finished, we had three inches! This also had a half mile of rock scrambling to the peak, a lot of it between narrow waterfalls. I loved it so much. And then at the top we were rewarded with a view of ... nothing! Just fog and snow, blowing directly back into your face! We laughed and scrambled down. We looked it up on the internet later and pretended we saw it.

We ate at Firehouse Brewing Co in Hill City. We drove to Chamberlain, SD. We didn't think we'd have any problem getting a hotel, but ... it was opening day for pheasant hunting season and people came from ALL AROUND the country! Four hotels we called we full! We were finally able to get a room at the Super 8, and I'm so glad we did, because the clerk told us to go to the Silver Dollar because they had music. It was full of fun, friendly, happy people, and we danced until late in the night. Awesome.

The Corn Palace

I didn't know what to expect at the Corn Palace, but it's made up of murals of vertically cut corn, in 11 different colors. It was so artistic, and they redo it every year! They had a livestream on their balcony, and when I sent it to my family they were all able to see me! That was fun. They also had pictures of all the different years inside. So cool.

We visited Brad and Peggy Greenway, two of my friends who have a pig farm in Mitchell. A trip's not a trip until you visit a friend. 

Sioux Falls, South Dakota

This was a surprise stop we just decided to make, and I'm so glad we did. The falls were so, so pretty. We walked all around them, saw them from the tower, and checked out the ruins. So lovely, and such a nice, sunny day. We ate here, and also checked out the Arc of Dreams on the way out of town to ...

Fargo

We had an Airbnb in the downtown here, which is what I like to do, because then I can pretend I live in that town. We walked from our cool little condo to the Wurst Bier Company, where I ate a giant pretzel (always a trip highlight), and Dempsey's Public House that had - ready for it? Gambling and cigarette machines. We didn't partake in either, but really - Fargo, who knew?

It was a fantastic time with some of my favorite people in the world. I love national parks, hiking, and seeing places I've never seen. Kris has four more states to go, so we might see those before Alaska so we can do our 50th state together. Until then - here's to the Dakotas!

 

Dow Gardens plus Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park

Dow Gardens

I don't know how I've lived in Michigan for so long and not gone to Dow Gardens. I've seen so much in my state, but somehow I haven't hit up this place!

My friend Julie and I went, and we had to buy tickets ahead of time. It's $10.00 for admission, and we ordered them online on an October day while our kids were in school.

We got there before it opened, so we hit up downtown for a coffee. Julie and I are late-in-life coffee drinkers. We both just started drinking it a few years ago, but we are now fully, completely, and totally in. Let me once again emphasize how much we're in.  So, we went to Espresso Milano in Midland.  I had a latte and it was so great. Sometimes coffee is good and sometimes it's okay, but this time...just go here. (My view may have been even more improved by the fact it was a gorgeous fall day, I was with Julie, we sat outside, and we were about to go on an adventure. But even if I were crabby, I still think it would have been great.)

We entered Dow Gardens and were blown away. It was huge! We made our way toward the canopy walk, which we'd both heard about. (The internet tells me it's the nation's longest canopy walk - 1,400 feet long and 40 feet above the ground.)

I loved the canopy walk. It was such a great view. Then we made our way around the entire place - waterfalls, gorgeous flowers, picturesque bridges, pretty leaves, and then Herbert and Grace Dow's house! I'm sure it's gorgeous in every season - it's open all year long.

I didn't know much about the Dows before I went here. I mean, I knew they built an industry, but I didn't KNOW know them. The museum here had a little bit of history about them, and it made me really like them. 

He was an inventor, and he had 90 patents to his name. As the Michigan Walk of Fame put it, "Herbert Dow literally put down roots in Midland. The orchards and gardens he planted around his home offered not only relaxation and an opportunity to research agricultural chemicals during his lifetime; they are now part of his legacy to the community." Grace and Herbert raised seven children together, volunteered and donated a lot, and after Herbert died, Grace founded The Herbert H. and Grace A. Dow Foundation and served as a trustee until she died.

They made a beautiful place, they started a wonderful business, and they then used their money to share this place with the rest of us. It was a fantastic day and visit. A latte cheers to you, Dows!

Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park

Now, this place I have been to several times ... but this time I saw parts of it I've never seen before! Also, they frequently exchange the indoor exhibits. They're open 362 days a year, and it cost $14.50 to go.

I went with Kate and Moriah to celebrate Moriah's birthday! She even has a year membership. Again, we went when our kids were in school, and again, it made for a lovely day!

We started in the Japanese Gardens, and I was blown away. Bridges, leaves, and even bonsai trees. I couldn't believe I'd never seen that part of the gardens before. We walked to every inch of it to soak it all in. This was my favorite part of the whole place. (I just read right now that this opened in 2015. When was the last time I was here not just looking at butterflies? Uncertain.)

We then ventured to the sculpture gardens, and oh my goodness, it's so awesome to see art with people who love it as much as you do. So much fun discussion! My favorite was Lying Man. I won't show it here so you can go and see it and enjoy it as much as I did. I will show you how you can do an awesome photo shoot here against vines. WHY NOT?!

We went inside for the gallery exhibit, the chrysanthemum and fall flower exhibits, and the gorgeous, good-smelling, and humid plant rooms. I couldn't get over how beautiful it all was. Made even better with super-appreciative friends! 

Again, I'm so happy that this exists within an hour from my house. A little history: "Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park opened in April 1995 after 13 years of planning and fundraising by the West Michigan Horticultural Society. In 1990, Fred and Lena Meijer were asked for their support, and they embraced the concept of a major cultural attraction centering around horticulture and sculpture. The original vision has turned into a top cultural destination in the Midwest region, known internationally for the quality of the art and gardens. It is a non-profit organization...operated by almost 200 full and part-time staff, more than 850 volunteers and supported by gifts from more than 27,000 member households and many donors."

Now, on to my yard, which has gorgeous fall leaves ... all over the ground. Where are my armies of volunteers?!